Out with the old, in with the new

You may have noticed that I've been a bit dormant on here lately. My goal for next year is to be more dedicated and get these posts up more regularly.

To say I'm happy to see the back end of 2012 would be a massive understatement. It's been a challenging year, but I've persevered! I look forward to challenges next year, but more of the sort that help get you ahead in life, not like this year, where each step forward was followed by two steps back.

Late last winter we moved from the town we'd called home for more than a decade to another more than 100 kms away. We'd hired a large, national moving company, but during the two-day event, one of the movers robbed me of all my family heirloom jewellery - more than $12,000 worth by my estimate. My mother's wedding ring and engagement band, my grandmothers custom-made anniversary ring, the first piece of jewellery my husband ever gave me, and more - gone forever. I filed a police report, but I was told they couldn't assign a jurisdiction to the case since we couldn't prove whether the robbery had taken place at our old address, or while they were delivering to out new address. The moving company barely even acknowledged a verbal apology over the phone. The insurance company wouldn't cough up without receipts for items purchased long before I was born. But the worst part wasn't even the thought of my jewellery ending up on someone else's finger, bought illegally at some pawn shop or on the street. No, it was realising that the jewellery was likely destroyed completely - melted down into unrecognizable chunks of gold along with other people's stolen goods. To me, it was a heartbreaking thought.

Just a few short weeks after the move, I was "restructured" and lost my job. I'd been employed constantly since I was 12 years old, so this was very unfamiliar territory for me. I was also guilt-stricken that I'd packed up my family and moved them to another town for a job I no longer had. My husband was still commuting 100 kms in each direction to go to work. My daughter was admitted to her new school only on a trial basis, since the curriculum differed from our old area. If she couldn't cut it, in six weeks she would be forced to change schools for the second time in a year. And on top of it all, we had just bough a new house and in the process, doubled our mortgage. If we hadn't moved, losing my job wouldn't have been such a concern, since our little pokey townhouse had a nothing mortgage. This new one was going to be difficult to pay for on the meagre wages Employment Insurance provides.

I quickly discovered that I had not moved to a booming area. There were lots of home and retail outlets, but no factories or corporation to provide the career level I was looking for. The few that there were paid salaries less than half what I was used to getting. I tried to pick up a few cleaning jobs on the side to make up some of the gap, but the work was unreliable. The outlook wasn't good, and with each passing month I watched out bank accounts dwindle and saw no prospects on the horizon. We debated whether to sell our house, but having just paid thousands in lawyer and real estate fees a few months earlier, we knew we'd not only have to spend that again, we'd also have to pay a penalty to break our mortgage. Rental homes weren't going for much less than a mortgage, which scared me. If we couldn't afford to keep our house, we couldn't afford to rent, either. I really don't know how people do it.

Of course, when it rains, it pours. The first month I was unemployed our car broke down and cost over $800 to fix. Around the same time our water heater went and we discovered that since it had been installed, regulations had changed and the venting was no longer to code. We would have to tear down walls and replace all the pipes before they would allow us to turn the gas back on in our house. I will spare you all the details, but let's just say this pretty much set the stage for the next several months.

My daughter was home all summer with me, since we could no longer afford daycare. People told me I should enjoy this time with her, as it was an opportunity I might never get again. Though this is true and I really wanted to feel that way, I don't think I ever got to really feel it was. I felt pressure to find a job and found it difficult to do so with a child in tow. On the other side I felt I should spend more time doing things with her, then felt guilty because I wasn't actively looking for work. Electric bills went up with two people at home 24 hours a day, and I didn't feel like we could afford to go anywhere - not just to places that charged an admission, but at all - because even the gas for the car was something I couldn't afford. I planted a garden in the hopes of saving money on food, but in the long run I think all it saved me was exposure to pesticides. The supplies and electricity required to can those goods can really add up. While a can of tomato sauce at the store can be bought on sale for $1, I estimate that the cost of a jar I made, including labour, was around $20.

Shortly after my daughter returned to school in September, my grandfather's health began to decline. He'd been diagnosed with cancer in the spring and had gone through radiation treatment, and until then had been pretty independent. He called me one evening and asked if I could take him to the hospital in the morning for a "procedure." I spent the day there with him and kept an eye on him through the evening. But the next few months went by in a blur as his health declined rapidly and he became more and more dependent. I found my days filled with taking him to appointments, doing his grocery shopping and cooking his meals. Don't get me wrong, I'm glad I was home and able to do these things for him, but I found little time during these days to look for a job, all-the-while growing increasingly aware of the E.I. cut-off date. Though I still had months to go, I had tipped past the halfway mark with nothing lined up, when I had thought at first I'd be off no more than a few weeks. I also knew the holidays were coming and wasn't sure how I would provide a Christmas for my daughter.

I remembered thinking at one time that if I ever found myself unemployed or won the lottery (or for any reason wasn't working at an office), that I would like to give a serious go at making writing a career. Then as soon as it happened, all my creative juices seeped away. In 7 months, I managed to pen less than 30,000 words. That might sound like a lot, but considering I can get 50,000 done in a month during November's NaNoWriMo, it's a pretty poor showing. I blame a combination of guilt - that spending time writing was an irresponsible way to spend time I should be spending on looking for a job - and a level of stress that gave me writer's block. The best opportunity of my life in that respect, when I had entire days alone to work... and I couldn't. I also lost my passion for reading. While in 2011 I read nearly 40 books, in 2012 I read less than 4. When I should have had ample time, I didn't. When I'm working, I often head to bed early and read for an hour. Yet this past year, I couldn't seem to let myself escape into a good book even under the tempting conditions of the sunny poolside in summer.

Anyway, then one day, it happened. I got a call about a job. An employer in receipt of my resume, who had no position posted, was intrigued by what she saw. Over the next month I met with her, sometimes racing from there to the hospital in the same day, to develop a position.

I am happy to say I am now gainfully employed again. We were able to keep our house. Granddad is doing much better. They say everything happens for a reason and I can't help but think that if I hadn't taken a new job and decided to move, I wouldn't be living close to my Granddad. If I hadn't lost that job, who would have been around to care for him when he needed it? Then, just as he began to recover and my responsibilities to him lessen, a new job pops up out of nowhere. It all falls into place nicely.

That said, I would not want to repeat the year I've just had. I am looking forward to rebuilding my financial cushion and perhaps even take a vacation in 2013, because I don't care what you say - being unemployed is not like being on vacation. Although you don't have to get up and go to the office each day, it is a very stressful way to live. No sir, I won't be missing 2012 when it's gone.

Make a good sandwich awesome

By now you've probably noticed that I like flexibility in my recipes, so why should this be any different?

First, ever notice how awesome melted cheese is? I mean, cheese in general is good, but something about it when it's a sticky, melted goo makes it just that much better, don't you think?

So, as you might have guessed, part of the sandwich awesomeness is having it heated. Now don't get all bent out of shape. I don't find making these much harder than a regular sandwich. There's just an extra step in the process and maybe an extra dish to clean. But it's worth it. Trust me. And, you can make them for dinner and/or pack them for lunch the next day, because they are still awesome cold. Have I mentioned these sandwiches are awesome?

I guess you probably want to know how to make them now? Okay, here goes:

Grab a couple of eggs (yes, eggs. I'll tell you why in a second)
A splash of milk
Salt and pepper
Deli meats (I like turkey and ham)
Cheese (get creative. I most often use Swiss and mozzarella, but I've also used provolone, cheddar, marble, and today, Havarti)

Okay, now go grab your griddle or fry pan. Make yourself an egg wash by beating the eggs, milk, salt and pepper together. Dip a slice of bread in the wash, one side only. We're not making French toast here, people! Just one side!
Now, place two slices of the bread, egg-washed side down, on the griddle. Top one side with meat and one side with cheese. Cook just until browned, about two minutes. Flip one slice on top of the other to form a sandwich. There. You're done! Easy, right?

In the sandwiches pictured, I've used turkey and Havarti, and turkey and marble as my examples. You can also double up for more hearty and fancy sandwiches. Top one side with mozzarella and turkey, the other side with cheddar and ham. Brown the egg sides and put them together. This is a great lunch to serve guests with soup or salad. It seems casual but will super-impress. Or, make it with one of the soups from one of my previous blogs, but then plan to spend the afternoon napping!

An award? For me? Aw, shucks.

Let's veer from the usual posts for a minute, because...I have recently been awarded The Liebster Blog Award!

The award is given to bloggers by bloggers, set up similarly to those chain emails you sometimes see that asks a bunch of questions and tells you to "pass it on." It's a way for those of us in the blogging community to get to know each other and gain some exposure through "six degrees of separation." In addition, it allows readers to get to know a bit about the writer and hooks them up with a few other great blogs to peruse.

The blogger who nominated me is a very talented writer and is incredible savvy in the world of social networking (I thought I had a good handle, but I feel like such a newbie next to her!). She has two great blogs, at opposite ends of the spectrum. Check them out when you have time. They are Life After (my) Kids and Mom's Toy Boxxx (yes, it's what it looks like).

Now, on to the challenge:

When you receive the award you: 

1. Post 11 random facts about yourself (harder then it sounds)
2. Answer 11 questions from the person(s) who nominated you
3. Pick 11 bloggers to pass the Award onto; make sure you tell them you nominated them and you’re not allowed to nominate the blog(s) who nominated you!
4. Ask them 11 questions 

(FYI: to get the Liebster "heart" picture, right click the picture on my page and save the picture to your computer. You can then upload to your blog.)

STEP 1: 11 Random Facts About Me 

1. I am a chronic over-planner. Sometimes this is a great attribute and sometimes I think details will be the death of me.
2. I have written 4 novels (working on a 5th), none of which I've attempted to published because I'm my own worst critic.
3. I'm a sucker for vampires (no pun intended), yet have never written about vampirism, lycanthropy, sorcery or the like. ***Note to self: this is your next goal.
4. I have a secret passion for financial planning, which could be considered surprising since I suck at math. Then again, it was Trigonometry that really killed me and this is more about buying a house than building one.
5. I dreamed about tornadoes nearly every night through my teen years.
6. I was once in a bank when it was robbed.
7. I like doing laundry. I find it relaxing.
8. I hate avocados. Even the word turns my stomach.
9. I grew up on a farm, so my husband finds my irrational fear of insects hilarious.
10. We always put up two Christmas trees in our house: one "family tree" full of homemade decorations from when my husband and I were kids, as well as ones our daughter has made; and another, which my husband refers to as the "Department Store Tree," full of matching decorations.
11. I drive stick.

STEP 2: Answer some Questions

1. Favorite way to relax?  On a beach with a good book.

2. Where do you get ideas for your posts? I love to travel and love to plan the trips as well (I do it all from scratch with my good friend Google, not with agents). So far all are first-hand travel experiences. I also love to cook, so I'm also starting to share some of my favorite recipes.

 
3. Favorite song/artist?  This is difficult, because I love so many and it really depends on my mood. I'd say top five are American Pie, Piano Man, The Rose, Just the Way you Are and Manic Monday. Eclectic much?

4. What was your favorite book as a child? Any of the Serendipity books.

5. What would you do with a million dollars? I'd pay off my mortgage, go on a nice trip, help out a few friends and invest the rest. Pretty boring answer, I know.

 
6. Movies, books or TV?  Again, it depends on my mood. I don't watch a lot of TV, movies only on weekends. A good book, however, will keep me up all night regardless of my obligations the next day.

7. What is your favorite movie, book or TV show? Oh, so many choices. I love lots of movies, though I will never turn down the opportunity to watch The Goonies. I don't know if I can pin down a favorite book, either, but I LOVED Water for Elephants. The only TV show I watch religiously is The Vampire Diaries. The Big Bang Theory is up there, too.

8. What would your super power be? OMG! This one stumped me longer than any other question. I guess it wouldn't be my choice, would it? I mean, Superman was an alien. Peter Parker was bitten by a spider. Who knows where mine would come from or what it would be? Yes, I know, I'm cheating out of that answer.

9. What are you reading right now?  City of Lost Souls (#5 in the Mortal Instruments series by Cassandra Clare)

 
10. What song were you listening to last?  Can't Buy Me Love ~ The Beatles

11. Where is your computer right now?  On my lap as I sit in the recliner.

STEP 3:  Award 11 Bloggers the Liebster

And the Liebster goes to (in no particular order):

1. Kevin at Author/Writer
2. Darlene at Leader of the 6 Pack
3. Sarah at Journeys of the Zoo
4. Chris at The Art of Non-Conformity
5. Cheryl at Kids on a Plane
6. Steven at Blood Skies
7. Liberty at Liberty's Yarn
8. Alex at Writing and Stuff
9. Andrew at Night Sights
10. MJ at Erotica by MJ Shaw
11. Jenna at Living High on the Hog, Without Paying Through the Nose

STEP 4: Ask those 11 people 11 questions

1. What time do you get up in the morning?
2. What do you want to be when you grow up?
3. What was the best birthday gift you ever received?
4. What was your last dream about?
5. What was on your wall when you were a teenager?
6. If you could live anywhere (and job and family/friends weren't considerations), where would you live?
7. Where is the most interesting place you've ever been? Why was it interesting?
8. What is a useless piece of information that you know?
9. If you could spend the day with any public figure (celebrity, author, politician, historical figure), living or dead, who would it be and why?
10. What is your biggest pet peeve?
11. Chips or chocolate?

I will not lie - accepting this award was a bigger process than anticipated. But with hard work comes great rewards (I hope!).

I now invite the 11 people I awarded to post a link to their Liebster Award post in my comments section. I look forward to reading it!

Best use of leftovers - Ham Chowder!

With the Canadian Thanksgiving now over, some people will be wondering what to do with leftovers. For those of you who made ham, I have the solution: ham chowder!

The recipe below is completely flexible based on what you have on hand, is super fast to make and a hit every time. I have NEVER had someone not like it, and I get requests by company all the time for me to make some of the chowder for them to take home. I even had a friend's co-worker ask for the recipe so she could make it for a pot-luck. Best of all - it's a meal in a bowl! Include a piece of bread to sop up the liquid and you've covered all the food groups in a way that kids will eat (my daughter, as are many, is picky with veggies, but she will chow down on a day's worth in one bowl of this soup).

Here's the recipe:

Ham, cubed (as much as you have - as little as a cup or as much as 5 or 6)
Cooked potatoes, cubed (similar quantities to above)
Veggies (corn, roasted carrots, frozen mixed veggies - whatever! 1 cup to 1 bag, as much as you like)
1 cup each: chicken broth, milk, Cheese Whiz (yes, Cheese Whiz)

Heat and serve

Yup, it's that simple. The beauty is that it is so flexible. I've made it with only a little meat and lots of veggies, as well as with lots of meat and potatoes. Whatever you have left over. But you can also make it any time if you buy a small Black Forest Ham. You can boil potatoes or used canned ones, leftover veggies or frozen ones. Even the liquid quantities are flexible as long as you keep the ratios the same for each. This soup is great for weeknights, as it can be ready to serve in as little as 10 minutes - and it is possibly even better the next day, after the flavours have had some time to blend. Perfect for work or in a thermos for school. It's super hearty and covers all the food groups (with bread), so there is no need to even make anything else to go with it. It's a whole meal in a bowl! A family favorite for sure.

Leek & Sweet Potato Soup

The thing I like about soups is that they are flexible. Unlike many cakes and desserts that are unforgiving if you don't accurately follow the recipe, soups are flexible and allow you to add your own creative flair.

As the weather grows cooler, soups are also a nice, hearty food to fill your belly. They are also an opportunity to pack a lot of nutrients into one bowl.

This week I pulled all the leeks from my garden and decided to make a batch of leek & sweet potato soup. My theory is that when making soup, you might as well make lots, because it takes virtually the same amount of time to prepare no matter the quantity. In this case, I froze half for a cold winter night and the other half we had for dinner that same day. Many soups actually taste better the next day, after the flavours have had time to blend.

Here's what I put in the soup:

3 lbs of sweet potatoes, peeled and cubed
2 medium red onions, diced
4 medium leeks, white and light green parts only, sliced thin
1 litre plus 1 cup of chicken broth
2 stalk of celery
3 cloves of garlic
2 tbsp of butter
1/4 cup of fresh parsley, chopped
Salt and pepper

In a large pot, sauté the onions, leeks and garlic in the butter, about 10 minutes, until soft.

Add the diced sweet potato, celery and chicken broth to the pot, bring to a boil, then simmer until the sweet potato becomes soft, about 25 minutes.

Add chopped parsley, and salt and pepper to taste. A dash of cumin works, too, though it is not necessary. Stir together. Scoop into a blender and purée until smooth.

Once puréed, return to pot and reheat, if necessary, or allow to cool before freezing. The soup is ready to eat now, but the beauty is that you can also dress it up more. Coconut milk, milk or cream added at the end add nice flavour and make it creamier, but it is good just like this. Also, by increasing or decreasing the amount of leek and onion you put in, you can make the soup sweeter or with a bit more bite. I personally like to go a little heavier on the leeks. Enjoy!

Bay of Fundy: High Tides and Hills

I once heard someone say "when you reach the end of life, your final thoughts won't be 'gosh, I wish I'd made that sales meeting.' It will be memories of 'that time we watched the whales in the Bay of Fundy.'"

Those words stuck with me and I decided I wanted to have that memory, too. It might sound like a silly thing, but it was what started me planning a family trip to the Bay of Fundy.

While the beauty of the area cannot be understated, so-called "attractions" aren't exactly close together. We decided to make this a road trip (driving 13 hours) rather than fly. We loaded our camping gear on the roof of our car, our bikes on the back, and off we went.

Fundy National Park, located in the northern section of the Appalachian mountain range, extends down to the coast where it meets the Bay of Fundy. It was the ideal place for us to stay on this nature trip.

Our campsite, early morning

Don't underestimate the size of this park. We camped at Point Wolfe, which was about 10 kms from the camp office and any amenities other than firewood (so be sure to stock up on any groceries or supplies before you get to the park). We were so high in the hills here that early in the morning we had to walk down through the cloud bank to get to the campground washrooms. I also underestimated how cold the nights could get in the mountains. Despite it being July, the temperature some nights hovered just above freezing. It was fine, once we prepared for it, but the first night was a little chilly!

Fundy National Park has more than 100 kms of trails, so there is no shortage of nature hikes here. There are trails for every level of hiker, from easy, beginner trails to tricky, expert trails. We made a mistake on one outing by selecting a difficult trail, severely underestimating just how difficult it was for people who were used to urban hikes.

The trail was at the opposite end of the park from where we were staying and took about 20 minutes of driving, much of it on a one-lane logging trail, to reach. The map said Moosehorn trail was a little over 2 kms long with some steep slopes (not far, right?) and connected to an easier trail (Laverty Falls) nearby (another 2.5 kms). We decided to start the trail, see how it was and then judge. It didn't seem so bad. Yes, there were a lot of uneven bits, but the so-called "steep" drop-offs didn't seem so bad and we motored along just fine.  The trail was beautiful: gurgling creeks, waterfalls and nature all around (a butterfly even came and landed on me when I stopped for a drink of water).

What we somehow didn't realize was that the first half of our hike was entirely downhill. It was noon by the time we reached the river at the halfway point and we felt like eggs frying in a pan as we walked along the rocky edge. That was followed by grass so tall, it towered over our heads. We couldn't be sure that we were in fact still on the trail (perhaps we were lost in the wilderness).

Then the climb back up the mountain began. By now we were all out of water and the temperature hovered around 30 degrees Celsius. Plus, it was über humid. I felt guilty every time my 5 year old asked "how much longer?" and I had no idea. This trail was tough for me, I could only imagine how hard it was on her little body. She wanted water, and we had none. We'd taken one bottle each and finished it by the halfway point. By the time we hit the 4 km point, my body was out of water and I stopped sweating. Not a good sign. Hubby ran ahead and made his way back to the car for more water, then came back for my daughter and I. Once we were back at the car I started shaking and spent much of the rest of the evening lying in the tent with a migraine. I do not recommend this trail unless you know what you are doing! Make sure you bring lots of water.

I know that 5 kms doesn't seem like far - but trust me, this is a difficult trail. We (including my daugher) have leisurely walked 15 kms in a day around cities in Europe without batting an eye. This trail beat us.


The next day, my daughter and I opted to hang by the park's salt water pool while my husband went geocaching. She found some kids to play with and I was content to curl up with a book and catch some sun. It was also pretty neat to sit by the pool and watch the fishing trawlers go by. Not something we get at home in Ontario.




Not far from the park is Cape Enrage. The drive along the water is beautiful, with rocky beaches that all but disappear at high tide. There is a lighthouse at the peak, which was much smaller than I ever pictured lighthouses in my head. Nearby there is a huge cliff where you can go rock climbing at low tide and see the lobster traps that were set to catch during high tide.

Cape Enrage, NB

The thing that sets the Bay of Fundy apart from other bodies of water, is that it has the highest tides in the world. Between high tide and low tide, the water level can change by as much as 40 feet, drastically changing the landscape twice a day.

 

 

Hopewell Rocks, low tide

Hopewell Rocks, high tide

An excellent spot to see this in action is at Hopewell Rocks, which is about 50 kilometres further into the Bay. Plan to spend a whole day here in order to get the full effect. Timetables, available online or at the cape, will tell you what time high and low tides are.  During low tide, when the water is out, you can walk freely on the sea floor. Seaweed becomes exposed and water lines loom high above your head. It'll be many hours before the tide comes back in, so waiting and watching it can be like waiting for a pot of water to boil on the stove... in slow motion!

We headed back to the restaurant near the entrance, where we had lobster rolls for lunch (which is basically lobster salad in a hot dog bun). After that, we still had several hours to kill before high tide, so we decided to go explore some more. We needed some groceries and asked the cashier at the ticket booth where the nearest grocery store was, expecting to be given directions a few kilometres away. We were astounded to learn that the nearest grocery store was in Moncton, 30 kilometres away.  My entire life I had lived within walking distance of a store. It was hard to imagine living so... secluded. We made the trek though, and took a little drive around the city while we were there before heading back to Hopewell Rocks for high tide.


In the opposite direction is quaint little village called St. Andrews, nearly 200 kms from Fundy National Park, near the U.S. border. We booked a whale watching excursion aboard a sailboat called the Jolly Breeze. We were worried that the long drive for this day trip would be for nothing when we woke up that morning to pouring rain. The ships won't sail in bad weather, when the water can be rough, but we lucked out and the further south we got, the more the weather cleared. We even had time to drive around Saint John, NB for a little bit on our way down.

As it turned out, it was the perfect day for this trip. Early on our ride it remained overcast and cool - a welcome change from the hot sun. Since there was little shade on the deck and little glare on the water, it allowed us to enjoy the sites as we sat on the boat. We saw a pod of seals relaxing on one of the islands we passed and a Bald Eagle perched high on a rock by the edge of the water.

As the day wore on, the clouds dispersed and the sun came out. Lovely lentil soup was handed out to the passengers as we set out for whale watching. We were not disappointed and spent more than an hour watching a mother Finback Whale and her calf swim around. Seeing the whales in their natural habitat cannot be compared to seeing a whale swim around in an aquarium tank. This is an experience I recommend for everyone. It's not cheap - probably our biggest expense on this trip at $55 per person ($35 for kids) - but well worth the money.

We also chanced upon a passing US Navel vessel, which was a sight to see on its own.






On our way back, containers with live star fish and sea urchins were passed around for the children to see and touch as the history of the area and education about sea life was told. Then they each had a chance in turn to steer the ship as we headed back to port.

The town itself is a sight to see, with quaint little shops and homes built in typical seaside fashion. We stopped for fish and chips at the Kennedy Inn, Canada's "oldest summer hotel," and wandered around town before taking the long drive back to our campground again.

The Canadian Maritime provinces offer so many sites to see, it is hard to choose what it is that you want to do. More popular destinations include PEI and Newfoundland, but although this trip involved a lot of driving, we feel we got to see a lot of treasures and considered it a great success. There is a lot to be said for spending a week with Mother Nature and all the wonders she offers.

A trip to the islands off Istanbul is like a step back in time...

Whether you want to call them the Princes' Islands or the Princess Islands is up to you. You can Google either name and get results. Officially, I believe they are called Princes' Islands, but my cousin who lived in Istanbul calls them Princess Islands.

Enough rambling. The point is that if you are visiting Istanbul, Turkey, make sure you plan a day trip out to these islands.

Ferries are available at a low cost throughout the day from Kabatas, but plan to leave early because it's not just a quick shunt over to the island. The regular ferry takes an hour and a half, but costs just 3TL each way. A faster sea bus travels less frequently for 7.50TL each way, but if you're not in a hurry, the longer ferry ride is relaxing and scenic. There are lots of vendors just feet from where the boats dock, so don't worry about breakfast - you can grab a bagel or pretzel on your way aboard. Snacks and drinks are also available on most boats, and likely you'll be entertained at some point by someone trying to sell a novelty item. I didn't find them pushy, and they put on a decent show to market their product. But if all else fails, you can feed and take pictures of the hundreds of seagulls that follow the ship from port to port. Make sure you use the washroom before boarding, though. The facilities on board leave something to be desired.

Büyükada is the biggest of the 9 Princes' Islands and also probably the most popular with tourists. If you are visiting outside of peak season it can be a wonderful trip back in time. But during the summer months it can be both hot and packed shoulder-to-shoulder with people.

As with all of the islands, there are no motorized vehicles. People get around by horse and carriage, bicycle, or good ol' fashioned heel-and-toe express (walking). You can rent bicycles and take carriage rides like taxis, which is a good way to explore the island and see its interesting blend of Victorian-meets-Turkish architecture.

The Princes' Islands were a place of exile for royalty (hence the name) during the Byzantine period, and later, for sultans as well. The Victorian influence comes from the large number of wealthy minority groups who built their cottages on these islands. Büyükada is also where Leon Trotsky exiled to when he was deported from the Soviet Union in 1929.

 














At the centre of the island, high up at one of the peaks, is a monastery that dates back to the sixth century. The carriages will only take you to the bottom of the peak, but for a little extra, they will wait for you to return from your hike. The hike is a fairly steep incline that goes up quite a long way (I remember being told it's a 2 kilometre hike, but I don't think it's quite that long). Do not be dismayed - the view at the top makes it worthwhile.  From the peak, you can see all of Istanbul across the Sea of Marmara. It's an amazing piece of serenity set just out of reach from the chaos of the city. 

At the top there is a small cafe where you can get a drink and a snack to refuel for the trip back down, just a stones throw from the small Ayia Yorgi Church and Monastery. From the other side of the monastery you can look out to sea over the beautiful blue water, despite the number of shipping vessels making their way to the Bosphorus.

If you are an animal lover, these islands also offer a rare glimpse of animal and human interaction. The islands suffer from copious amounts of stray dogs, cats and horses. Expect to feel feral cats twisting around your legs as you eat on the local patio. She will purr and beg for scraps. You'll probably see unaccompanied dogs and even horses (yes, horses) wandering on the same footpath as you. They are so used to people being around them that they hardly stir as you pass.

When your day is done and you're ready to head home, keep your camera close at hand. Depending on what time of year you visit, you may see a spectacular sunset or just get a stunning view of some of Istanbul's great wonders (Blue Mosque, Hagia Sofia, Dolmabahçe Palace, Topkapi Palace and Galata Tower) as only you can from the water. You can't ask for more for 6TL per person.

Blue Mosque

Galata Tower

Dolmabahçe Palace

Loire Valley, France: A Trip to the Land of Fairytales

If you happen to be vacationing in Paris and can manage a trip out of the city, I highly recommend a trip through the Loire Valley.

The Loire Valley is an area about 2 hours outside of Paris that is both rich in vineyards and beautiful historic castles. Many are located within a few kilometres of each other, so you could see a lot with just a day trip (you can also book tours from Paris).

Some of the castles in the region are huge and majestic, while others are straight out of a fairytale. Some should not be underestimated either, just because they don't look that interesting at a glance. 

The tomb of Leonardo Da Vinci

One of my favourite stops on our trip was to Amboise castle. My aunt, who lives in France, had been to this region many times, but had never ventured to this castle, unaware of the "treasure" that we found within.

I think when most people think of Leonardo DaVinci, they think of an artist and inventor, a brilliant mind who understood the human body better than anyone at the time; probably better than most, even today. Born in 1452, he is known as the Italian painter of the Mona Lisa and the Last Supper. People often seem surprised to learn that Da Vinci did not die in Italy, nor is his body buried there.

Yes, my friends, I had to privilege to stand at the tomb of one of the most brilliant minds in history and pay my respects. For it is here, at Amboise castle, that he is buried.

Chapel of Saint-Hubert

Leonardo Da Vinci was also a scientist, mathematician and architect (with had many other talents). In 1516 he was commissioned to build a mechanical lion for Francis I and was given a home to live in (Clos Lucé) just outside the château's grounds. It was here that Da Vinci spent the last 3 years of his life, becoming a great friend of Francis I, who is said to have held Da Vinci in his arms as he died.

He was buried in the tiny Chapel of Saint-Hubert located within the walls of Château Amboise.

Château Chambord

The most majestic castle we saw on our trip through the Valley was Chambord. It is one of the most imposing representations of French Renaissance architecture and is the largest castle in the Loire Valley. It has an impressive 440 rooms, 282 fireplaces, and 84 staircases. Unbelievably, it was not even built as a primary residence, but rather as a hunting lodge for Francis I (mentioned above), whose primary residences were Amboise and Blois. There is also some speculation that the design of this castle was the creation of Leonardo Da Vinci.

It is hard to believe that a) such a building would be built as a hunting lodge and b) that it was actually an abandoned building for a time, before restoration took effect in the late 1700s. During WWI, this is where many treasured artifacts from the Louvre were stored, even though it was never designed to provide any sort of defence from enemies.

This castle has only been open to the public since 2007.

Château Chenonceau

My daughter's favourite stop was probably Château Chenonceau. This is certainly a castle out of a fairy tale. Just as you imagine in these stories, there is a long, tree-lined path leading up to perfectly manicured gardens that surround the castle's grounds. A moat surrounds the castle and a river runs through it. Yes, through it.

Although it was a much smaller castle, from my understanding it has probably been through the most turmoil.

The château is not really a château, but rather a manor house originally built sometime before the 11th century. Over the years it has been sold, torched, destroyed and rebuilt countless times. It also hosted the parties of legends and was the site of France's first-ever firework display.

River Cher running through Château Chenonceau

The gardens at Chenonceau are also worth seeing, with a huge plot best viewed from one of the castle's upper windows.

Down the foot path was my daughter's favourite part of the castle and grounds: a real hedge maze! She could have played in it all day. I have to admit even I was enamoured with this. What child (or adult), after seeing them in endless movies, wouldn't want to run around in one? I'm sure they exist all over, but this was the first time I'd ever seeing a real one. Imagine how long it takes to plant and then grow into an intricate design? I would have spent all day here if we'd had time.

Foot path leading to Château Chenonceau

Hedge maze at Château Chenonceau

The bottom line is, a trip through the Loire Valley is TOTALLY worth it. Every castle offers something different and has a different history behind it. Size and design range from small, fairytale-type manors to huge, intricately-designed structures. Even if you're not into castles, the drive between Paris and Tour will take you through small French villages, vineyards, windmill farms and wide open lavender fields. It is just stunning. Go. Enjoy.

Cambridge has more to offer besides a good education

You don't have to be studying at a world class university to appreciate the town of Cambridge, England. It offers stunning views and amazing architecture. I could wander the streets here for days.

By that I mean that there is ample to see, not that it would take you days to do so. In fact, Cambridge is very navigable on foot, the bulk of the highlights all within several blocks of each other. Parking, on the other hand, is another story.

In Oxford (another university town I will discuss in another post), we weren't lucky enough to find free parking, and forked out a small fortune to park while we spent a few hours sight-seeing. On the day we were in Cambridge, however, it was a bank holiday and street parking was free... if you could find it. Otherwise standard parking lots were available, at the standard expensive rates.

We managed to find parking along Queen's Road, across the green space that backed onto King's College. We walked through the parks of King's Back and Queen's Backs, then headed into town along Silver Street.

Silver Street crosses the river, where there are several punts for hire (gondola rides) and is also where you see the wooden mathematical bridge that crosses the river, joining the two parts of Queen's College. It was originally built in 1789 and was most recently rebuilt more than 100 years ago.

Eventually you'll arrive at Trumpington Street, where the bulk of our sightseeing took place.

Peterhouse was our first stop. Although this town is dense with concrete, it manages to hold its appeal with striking architecture and beautifully manicured courtyards. Where there is no courtyard, large potters can be found overflowing with flowers, even in early spring.

 

Our next stop was Corpus Christi, which I was really excited to see.  Exams were in progress, so we weren't allowed to go further than the courtyard, but I still loved every moment I got to stand there and be part of the atmosphere. You can feel the history surrounding you. It is neither the oldest, nor the biggest college that is part of Cambridge University, but it is the only one that was founded by the townspeople. Construction began in 1352, following the Black Plague .

We also stopped by the Corpus Clock at the corner of Trumpington and Bene't. It is a giant gold-plated clock with a creepy, giant grasshopper-type insect sitting on top. It is the Chronophage, or time-eater. It moves as the seconds tick by, eating time and making a disturbing sound. It was unveiled by physicist Stephen Hawking in 2008 and from my understanding, has mixed support amongst area residents.



We stopped for a cappuccino at the Caffe Nero in front of King's College, then headed over to the Cambridge University Press Shop. There has been a bookstore on the site since 1581.

Just up from the bookstore on Market St. was... you guessed it: a market. We spent some time in here watching the buskers perform, buying handmade soaps and sipping freshly squeezed juice.

We then looped around to King's College Chapel, behind King's College. This chapel is rich with history mounted on the walls, written in the stained glass, and marked on the tombstones in the floors beneath your feet.

You can learn the history behind the construction of the chapel (built by Henry VI after seeing Paris' St. Chapelle) as well as the royal genealogy, from the time of Edward III to Henry VIII.




Admission to King's College Chapel was our only expense of the day (£7.50 and free for kids under 12), as most colleges were closed to visitors during exams. Most of the colleges, when open, do charge an admission fee, and although I was interested to see the insides and particularly the libraries of some of the colleges, this turned out to be only a mild disappointment. There was so much to see around town from the outside that we hardly missed being able to go inside any of the buildings. It was perfect day for relaxing as we meandered through town, leisurely admiring the buildings we passed.

Our last stop of the day was at Christ College. Just like the rest of the town, the architecture and detailing that went into the college and grounds did not disappoint. It had a blended design that made it seem both academic and residential, with ivy climbing the walls and potted flowers on the window sills.


If you're looking for an inexpensive way to spend the day, this would be it. Over the course of the day we walked less than two kilometres - all on an easy, flat terrain - and spent almost nothing. Yet the kids and adults alike were kept interested and entertained the whole day, after seeing just a few of the colleges and commons this town has to offer.

A) Mathematical Bridge / Punts
B) Peterhouse
C) Corpus Christi
D) Corpus Christi Clock
E) University Press Book Shop
F) King's College Chapel
G) Christs College

J'adore Paris

Never in a million years did I think I would ever make it to Paris. It seemed like a city born in romance novels and too expensive for the average person to experience. Then, in 2011, it finally happened - almost by chance.

We were planning a trip to visit my aunt in Europe, and discovered that there were no direct flights to her location. We would have a stop-over in Paris. Not seeing another opportunity anywhere in the near future, we decided to lengthen the stop-over and spent a whirlwind 3 days in Paris. But how could we do this without breaking our fragile budget? With some dedicated time and tools provided by Google, I will share with you how we experienced the highlights of Paris without spending a fortune.

A view from Place de la Concorde up Avenue des Champs-Élysées to the Arc du Triomphe

First of all, hunt websites for the best plane fares. Surprisingly, going direct to the airline doesn't guarantee the best price. After finding a flight on Expedia.ca, I called the airline to compare prices and found that they were charging nearly $200 more per person than Expedia for the same flight (I cross referenced the flight numbers). The airline insisted it was impossible for a flight to be cheaper anywhere else, but there you have it. I called Expedia direct, confirmed the price and booked the tickets.

Next, decide what you want in the way of accommodations. Understandably, hotels become cheaper the further away you are from the heart of things. Paris is divided by zones, called Arrondissments, starting in the centre and working outwards. Hotels in the 1st Arrondissment can often cost €250-€500 per night. If you want to go out beyond the 10th Arrondissment, you can probably find hotels closer to €80 per night, but then you have to factor in a half hour or more on the metro to get to any of the more popular sights. So, you need to decide how much your time is worth.

For us, time was valuable, since we only had a few days in the city. Still, we couldn't afford €250 per night for a hotel. We had to find a cheaper option.

Apartments are a fabulous idea. Many Parisians and vacation property owners rent out their spaces just like a hotel and are often much cheaper than a hotel. There several sites and thousands of options on sites like VRBO, Homelidays and even Craigslist, so decide what part of the city you want to stay in first. I have friends who have found apartments for €80 or €90 in rooms so small you had to step behind the toilet in order to close the washroom door. The place we found was a little more at €124 per night, but was a big, spacious apartment with a soaker tub, washing machine and American-style fridge - great features when travelling with a family. My husband also felt it gave us a more authentic Parisian experience over staying in a hotel. It was right on the border between the 1st and 4th Arrondissments and a 5 minute walk to Notre Dame. 

For us, this price was worth not losing an hour or more per day on public transportation, especially since there was a train strike at the time. We walked to most sites from our apartment and picked up food (especially crêpes!) from street vendors along the way or from little markets pocketed along the streets.

Should you decide to take the Metro or RER, rest assured, Paris' public transportation system is stellar and efficient. We took the RER from Charles de Gaulle airport to out apartment, and a few times in order to shave off some time on our schedule. Likely, you will end up taking transit at some point, so I recommend buying a booklet of 10 tickets for €11.40, which is cheaper than individual rides as long as you use them all. If you've planned ahead, you should have some idea how many you'll need.

We arrived in Paris just after noon, so by the time we settled into our apartment, it was late afternoon. We got something to eat and then walked up to the Louvre. One day a year all of France's museums offer free entry, and the day we arrived happened to be it (May 14). Now, it is said that you could spend a week in the Louvre alone, so my suggestion is to figure out what you want to see ahead of time, then look at a map to find out where they are located within the museum.

The Louvre, Paris

 On day 2 of our trip, we took the Metro out to Denfert-Rochereau station, which comes out right at the entrance to the Catacombs of Paris. The Catacombs are an underground network of tunnels that are the final resting place of an estimated 6 million Parisians. A 2 kilometre stretch of the tunnels is open to the public and while admittedly a little on the dark side, it is a fascinating piece of Paris' history.

Les Catacombes de Paris

Take note: the Catacombs are a busy attraction and the wait to get in is often an hour or more, so get there early (they open at 10 a.m., closed Mondays). At the time we went, admission was €8 for adults and free for children under 14 (though it was not recommended to bring children under this age). It can also be a little chilly, so bring a sweater!

From there, we walked to Luxembourg Gardens, which is a beautiful and peaceful place in the heart of the city. Also, if you have kids, they have a great playground area for the kids. Although it costs €2.50 to get in, it is well worth the money. There is also a nice cafe where you can sit outside and appreciate nature...but it is costly!

From there, we stopped for lunch at the Polidor. Although it doesn't look like much on the outside, it is a well-know restaurant with good food at a reasonable price compared to many places in Paris. I had their "famous" pumpkin soup. My daughter used their "legendary" washroom at the end of the meal. It has not changed in decades and was our first introduction to "hole in the ground" toilets.

After lunch we visited the Pantheon, Le Sorbonne, St. Chapelle, Notre Dame and Hotel de Ville. I believe most people know about the Pantheon and Notre Dame, but while St. Chapelle does have an audience, I don't think it's as well known. It is totally worth the wait and the admission price (€8.50 for adults, free for kids) to see the stunning stained glass interior.

The stained glass panes of St. Chapelle tell the story of the bible, beginning with the Book of Genesis

After Notre Dame, we headed back to our apartment to refresh a little and to grab some dinner before heading out on the second leg of our day. The first half included about 5 kms of walking, so we needed to refuel. Should you be more adventurous than us or have more time, Montparnasse Cemetery is located near the Catacombs and would be an addition I would have added if we'd had more time. Also, Pompidou shopping centre is only a few blocks from Notre Dame and a good place to get out of the heat for a while, if you're travelling in the summer.

To follow our path, see below:

After dinner, we took the Metro to Concorde station, which brings you out in front of the Obelisk of Luxor in the Place du Concorde. From there, you can see the Eiffel Tower in the distance and a beautiful view of the Arc du Triomphe at the end of Champs-Élysées. It's a 2 km walk up to the Arc du Triomphe, but if you're a shopper, this is the Rodeo Drive of Paris.

From the Arc du Triomphe, we walked to the Eiffel Tower, lit up in the dark by this time. It was a spectacular view to end our night. The price to go up the Eiffel Tower varies, depending on how high you want to go and if you take the stairs or elevator (€12 adults, €6.70 for kids to go to the top floor).

Photo courtesy of my 7 year old daughter

On day 3, we took the Metro to Monmartre Cemetery, a beautiful cemetery with stunning monuments (if you're into art history, it is also the final resting place of Edgar Degas). The subway map said we should get off at Place de Clichy, but it seemed to me we would be closer if we got off at Blanche station. This was a pleasant surprise, as we stepped up to ground level in front of the Moulin Rouge!

From there, we walked to la Basilique du Sacré-Cœur. We stopped at a local sandwich shop to pick up some lunch, then carried our picnic up to the basilica. There are gardens behind the basilica, seemingly unknown to most tourists, which provided a tranquil setting for lunch on the doorstep of this Parisian landmark.

The tranquil gardens behind La Basilique du Sacré-Cœur

From the front of the basilica, there is a spectacular view of the city that on its own is worth the trip.

After admiring the view, we took the Metro again to the Père Lachaise stop which takes you to... you guessed it: Père Lachaise Cemetery. If you only visit one cemetery while in Paris, let it be this one. The monuments and crypts are striking. It also has the greatest number of notable residents (such as Doors front man, Jim Morrison and writer, Oscar Wilde). Do yourself a favour, and pay the money at the entrance for a map. This cemetery is HUGE and you'll never find the tombs you're looking for without it. Fanatical tourists have been a nuisance over the years, causing Jim Morrison's grave to be fenced off to prevent its desecration, but it's not the only one suffering. From a distance, Oscar Wilde's monument looks completely ruined, but up close you realize they are mostly touching tributes to a prolific author (not that I condone doing this to someone's grave).






Don't let these few images sway you, though. The beauty that exists within the walls of this cemetery cannot be explained in words. Go. You won't regret it.

After we left the cemetery, we walked up Rue de la Roquette to Bastille and the Opera House before heading back to our apartment.

I think you can agree this is a lot to pack into 3 days, but it can be done, and it can be done on a budget! The pace can be more leisurely if you have more time in the city as well. Of course, this is only a fraction of what there is to see. Paris is rich with museums, for example. 

My mother used to say that travel is the best education and therefore I believe money spent on vacations is never a waste. If you get the chance, go. You don't need a lot of time in order to appreciate what the city has to offer.