Bay of Fundy: High Tides and Hills

I once heard someone say "when you reach the end of life, your final thoughts won't be 'gosh, I wish I'd made that sales meeting.' It will be memories of 'that time we watched the whales in the Bay of Fundy.'"

Those words stuck with me and I decided I wanted to have that memory, too. It might sound like a silly thing, but it was what started me planning a family trip to the Bay of Fundy.

While the beauty of the area cannot be understated, so-called "attractions" aren't exactly close together. We decided to make this a road trip (driving 13 hours) rather than fly. We loaded our camping gear on the roof of our car, our bikes on the back, and off we went.

Fundy National Park, located in the northern section of the Appalachian mountain range, extends down to the coast where it meets the Bay of Fundy. It was the ideal place for us to stay on this nature trip.

Our campsite, early morning

Don't underestimate the size of this park. We camped at Point Wolfe, which was about 10 kms from the camp office and any amenities other than firewood (so be sure to stock up on any groceries or supplies before you get to the park). We were so high in the hills here that early in the morning we had to walk down through the cloud bank to get to the campground washrooms. I also underestimated how cold the nights could get in the mountains. Despite it being July, the temperature some nights hovered just above freezing. It was fine, once we prepared for it, but the first night was a little chilly!

Fundy National Park has more than 100 kms of trails, so there is no shortage of nature hikes here. There are trails for every level of hiker, from easy, beginner trails to tricky, expert trails. We made a mistake on one outing by selecting a difficult trail, severely underestimating just how difficult it was for people who were used to urban hikes.

The trail was at the opposite end of the park from where we were staying and took about 20 minutes of driving, much of it on a one-lane logging trail, to reach. The map said Moosehorn trail was a little over 2 kms long with some steep slopes (not far, right?) and connected to an easier trail (Laverty Falls) nearby (another 2.5 kms). We decided to start the trail, see how it was and then judge. It didn't seem so bad. Yes, there were a lot of uneven bits, but the so-called "steep" drop-offs didn't seem so bad and we motored along just fine.  The trail was beautiful: gurgling creeks, waterfalls and nature all around (a butterfly even came and landed on me when I stopped for a drink of water).

What we somehow didn't realize was that the first half of our hike was entirely downhill. It was noon by the time we reached the river at the halfway point and we felt like eggs frying in a pan as we walked along the rocky edge. That was followed by grass so tall, it towered over our heads. We couldn't be sure that we were in fact still on the trail (perhaps we were lost in the wilderness).

Then the climb back up the mountain began. By now we were all out of water and the temperature hovered around 30 degrees Celsius. Plus, it was über humid. I felt guilty every time my 5 year old asked "how much longer?" and I had no idea. This trail was tough for me, I could only imagine how hard it was on her little body. She wanted water, and we had none. We'd taken one bottle each and finished it by the halfway point. By the time we hit the 4 km point, my body was out of water and I stopped sweating. Not a good sign. Hubby ran ahead and made his way back to the car for more water, then came back for my daughter and I. Once we were back at the car I started shaking and spent much of the rest of the evening lying in the tent with a migraine. I do not recommend this trail unless you know what you are doing! Make sure you bring lots of water.

I know that 5 kms doesn't seem like far - but trust me, this is a difficult trail. We (including my daugher) have leisurely walked 15 kms in a day around cities in Europe without batting an eye. This trail beat us.


The next day, my daughter and I opted to hang by the park's salt water pool while my husband went geocaching. She found some kids to play with and I was content to curl up with a book and catch some sun. It was also pretty neat to sit by the pool and watch the fishing trawlers go by. Not something we get at home in Ontario.




Not far from the park is Cape Enrage. The drive along the water is beautiful, with rocky beaches that all but disappear at high tide. There is a lighthouse at the peak, which was much smaller than I ever pictured lighthouses in my head. Nearby there is a huge cliff where you can go rock climbing at low tide and see the lobster traps that were set to catch during high tide.

Cape Enrage, NB

The thing that sets the Bay of Fundy apart from other bodies of water, is that it has the highest tides in the world. Between high tide and low tide, the water level can change by as much as 40 feet, drastically changing the landscape twice a day.

 

 

Hopewell Rocks, low tide

Hopewell Rocks, high tide

An excellent spot to see this in action is at Hopewell Rocks, which is about 50 kilometres further into the Bay. Plan to spend a whole day here in order to get the full effect. Timetables, available online or at the cape, will tell you what time high and low tides are.  During low tide, when the water is out, you can walk freely on the sea floor. Seaweed becomes exposed and water lines loom high above your head. It'll be many hours before the tide comes back in, so waiting and watching it can be like waiting for a pot of water to boil on the stove... in slow motion!

We headed back to the restaurant near the entrance, where we had lobster rolls for lunch (which is basically lobster salad in a hot dog bun). After that, we still had several hours to kill before high tide, so we decided to go explore some more. We needed some groceries and asked the cashier at the ticket booth where the nearest grocery store was, expecting to be given directions a few kilometres away. We were astounded to learn that the nearest grocery store was in Moncton, 30 kilometres away.  My entire life I had lived within walking distance of a store. It was hard to imagine living so... secluded. We made the trek though, and took a little drive around the city while we were there before heading back to Hopewell Rocks for high tide.


In the opposite direction is quaint little village called St. Andrews, nearly 200 kms from Fundy National Park, near the U.S. border. We booked a whale watching excursion aboard a sailboat called the Jolly Breeze. We were worried that the long drive for this day trip would be for nothing when we woke up that morning to pouring rain. The ships won't sail in bad weather, when the water can be rough, but we lucked out and the further south we got, the more the weather cleared. We even had time to drive around Saint John, NB for a little bit on our way down.

As it turned out, it was the perfect day for this trip. Early on our ride it remained overcast and cool - a welcome change from the hot sun. Since there was little shade on the deck and little glare on the water, it allowed us to enjoy the sites as we sat on the boat. We saw a pod of seals relaxing on one of the islands we passed and a Bald Eagle perched high on a rock by the edge of the water.

As the day wore on, the clouds dispersed and the sun came out. Lovely lentil soup was handed out to the passengers as we set out for whale watching. We were not disappointed and spent more than an hour watching a mother Finback Whale and her calf swim around. Seeing the whales in their natural habitat cannot be compared to seeing a whale swim around in an aquarium tank. This is an experience I recommend for everyone. It's not cheap - probably our biggest expense on this trip at $55 per person ($35 for kids) - but well worth the money.

We also chanced upon a passing US Navel vessel, which was a sight to see on its own.






On our way back, containers with live star fish and sea urchins were passed around for the children to see and touch as the history of the area and education about sea life was told. Then they each had a chance in turn to steer the ship as we headed back to port.

The town itself is a sight to see, with quaint little shops and homes built in typical seaside fashion. We stopped for fish and chips at the Kennedy Inn, Canada's "oldest summer hotel," and wandered around town before taking the long drive back to our campground again.

The Canadian Maritime provinces offer so many sites to see, it is hard to choose what it is that you want to do. More popular destinations include PEI and Newfoundland, but although this trip involved a lot of driving, we feel we got to see a lot of treasures and considered it a great success. There is a lot to be said for spending a week with Mother Nature and all the wonders she offers.

A trip to the islands off Istanbul is like a step back in time...

Whether you want to call them the Princes' Islands or the Princess Islands is up to you. You can Google either name and get results. Officially, I believe they are called Princes' Islands, but my cousin who lived in Istanbul calls them Princess Islands.

Enough rambling. The point is that if you are visiting Istanbul, Turkey, make sure you plan a day trip out to these islands.

Ferries are available at a low cost throughout the day from Kabatas, but plan to leave early because it's not just a quick shunt over to the island. The regular ferry takes an hour and a half, but costs just 3TL each way. A faster sea bus travels less frequently for 7.50TL each way, but if you're not in a hurry, the longer ferry ride is relaxing and scenic. There are lots of vendors just feet from where the boats dock, so don't worry about breakfast - you can grab a bagel or pretzel on your way aboard. Snacks and drinks are also available on most boats, and likely you'll be entertained at some point by someone trying to sell a novelty item. I didn't find them pushy, and they put on a decent show to market their product. But if all else fails, you can feed and take pictures of the hundreds of seagulls that follow the ship from port to port. Make sure you use the washroom before boarding, though. The facilities on board leave something to be desired.

Büyükada is the biggest of the 9 Princes' Islands and also probably the most popular with tourists. If you are visiting outside of peak season it can be a wonderful trip back in time. But during the summer months it can be both hot and packed shoulder-to-shoulder with people.

As with all of the islands, there are no motorized vehicles. People get around by horse and carriage, bicycle, or good ol' fashioned heel-and-toe express (walking). You can rent bicycles and take carriage rides like taxis, which is a good way to explore the island and see its interesting blend of Victorian-meets-Turkish architecture.

The Princes' Islands were a place of exile for royalty (hence the name) during the Byzantine period, and later, for sultans as well. The Victorian influence comes from the large number of wealthy minority groups who built their cottages on these islands. Büyükada is also where Leon Trotsky exiled to when he was deported from the Soviet Union in 1929.

 














At the centre of the island, high up at one of the peaks, is a monastery that dates back to the sixth century. The carriages will only take you to the bottom of the peak, but for a little extra, they will wait for you to return from your hike. The hike is a fairly steep incline that goes up quite a long way (I remember being told it's a 2 kilometre hike, but I don't think it's quite that long). Do not be dismayed - the view at the top makes it worthwhile.  From the peak, you can see all of Istanbul across the Sea of Marmara. It's an amazing piece of serenity set just out of reach from the chaos of the city. 

At the top there is a small cafe where you can get a drink and a snack to refuel for the trip back down, just a stones throw from the small Ayia Yorgi Church and Monastery. From the other side of the monastery you can look out to sea over the beautiful blue water, despite the number of shipping vessels making their way to the Bosphorus.

If you are an animal lover, these islands also offer a rare glimpse of animal and human interaction. The islands suffer from copious amounts of stray dogs, cats and horses. Expect to feel feral cats twisting around your legs as you eat on the local patio. She will purr and beg for scraps. You'll probably see unaccompanied dogs and even horses (yes, horses) wandering on the same footpath as you. They are so used to people being around them that they hardly stir as you pass.

When your day is done and you're ready to head home, keep your camera close at hand. Depending on what time of year you visit, you may see a spectacular sunset or just get a stunning view of some of Istanbul's great wonders (Blue Mosque, Hagia Sofia, Dolmabahçe Palace, Topkapi Palace and Galata Tower) as only you can from the water. You can't ask for more for 6TL per person.

Blue Mosque

Galata Tower

Dolmabahçe Palace

Loire Valley, France: A Trip to the Land of Fairytales

If you happen to be vacationing in Paris and can manage a trip out of the city, I highly recommend a trip through the Loire Valley.

The Loire Valley is an area about 2 hours outside of Paris that is both rich in vineyards and beautiful historic castles. Many are located within a few kilometres of each other, so you could see a lot with just a day trip (you can also book tours from Paris).

Some of the castles in the region are huge and majestic, while others are straight out of a fairytale. Some should not be underestimated either, just because they don't look that interesting at a glance. 

The tomb of Leonardo Da Vinci

One of my favourite stops on our trip was to Amboise castle. My aunt, who lives in France, had been to this region many times, but had never ventured to this castle, unaware of the "treasure" that we found within.

I think when most people think of Leonardo DaVinci, they think of an artist and inventor, a brilliant mind who understood the human body better than anyone at the time; probably better than most, even today. Born in 1452, he is known as the Italian painter of the Mona Lisa and the Last Supper. People often seem surprised to learn that Da Vinci did not die in Italy, nor is his body buried there.

Yes, my friends, I had to privilege to stand at the tomb of one of the most brilliant minds in history and pay my respects. For it is here, at Amboise castle, that he is buried.

Chapel of Saint-Hubert

Leonardo Da Vinci was also a scientist, mathematician and architect (with had many other talents). In 1516 he was commissioned to build a mechanical lion for Francis I and was given a home to live in (Clos Lucé) just outside the château's grounds. It was here that Da Vinci spent the last 3 years of his life, becoming a great friend of Francis I, who is said to have held Da Vinci in his arms as he died.

He was buried in the tiny Chapel of Saint-Hubert located within the walls of Château Amboise.

Château Chambord

The most majestic castle we saw on our trip through the Valley was Chambord. It is one of the most imposing representations of French Renaissance architecture and is the largest castle in the Loire Valley. It has an impressive 440 rooms, 282 fireplaces, and 84 staircases. Unbelievably, it was not even built as a primary residence, but rather as a hunting lodge for Francis I (mentioned above), whose primary residences were Amboise and Blois. There is also some speculation that the design of this castle was the creation of Leonardo Da Vinci.

It is hard to believe that a) such a building would be built as a hunting lodge and b) that it was actually an abandoned building for a time, before restoration took effect in the late 1700s. During WWI, this is where many treasured artifacts from the Louvre were stored, even though it was never designed to provide any sort of defence from enemies.

This castle has only been open to the public since 2007.

Château Chenonceau

My daughter's favourite stop was probably Château Chenonceau. This is certainly a castle out of a fairy tale. Just as you imagine in these stories, there is a long, tree-lined path leading up to perfectly manicured gardens that surround the castle's grounds. A moat surrounds the castle and a river runs through it. Yes, through it.

Although it was a much smaller castle, from my understanding it has probably been through the most turmoil.

The château is not really a château, but rather a manor house originally built sometime before the 11th century. Over the years it has been sold, torched, destroyed and rebuilt countless times. It also hosted the parties of legends and was the site of France's first-ever firework display.

River Cher running through Château Chenonceau

The gardens at Chenonceau are also worth seeing, with a huge plot best viewed from one of the castle's upper windows.

Down the foot path was my daughter's favourite part of the castle and grounds: a real hedge maze! She could have played in it all day. I have to admit even I was enamoured with this. What child (or adult), after seeing them in endless movies, wouldn't want to run around in one? I'm sure they exist all over, but this was the first time I'd ever seeing a real one. Imagine how long it takes to plant and then grow into an intricate design? I would have spent all day here if we'd had time.

Foot path leading to Château Chenonceau

Hedge maze at Château Chenonceau

The bottom line is, a trip through the Loire Valley is TOTALLY worth it. Every castle offers something different and has a different history behind it. Size and design range from small, fairytale-type manors to huge, intricately-designed structures. Even if you're not into castles, the drive between Paris and Tour will take you through small French villages, vineyards, windmill farms and wide open lavender fields. It is just stunning. Go. Enjoy.