Enough rambling. The point is that if you are visiting Istanbul, Turkey, make sure you plan a day trip out to these islands.
Ferries are available at a low cost throughout the day from Kabatas, but plan to leave early because it's not just a quick shunt over to the island. The regular ferry takes an hour and a half, but costs just 3TL each way. A faster sea bus travels less frequently for 7.50TL each way, but if you're not in a hurry, the longer ferry ride is relaxing and scenic. There are lots of vendors just feet from where the boats dock, so don't worry about breakfast - you can grab a bagel or pretzel on your way aboard. Snacks and drinks are also available on most boats, and likely you'll be entertained at some point by someone trying to sell a novelty item. I didn't find them pushy, and they put on a decent show to market their product. But if all else fails, you can feed and take pictures of the hundreds of seagulls that follow the ship from port to port. Make sure you use the washroom before boarding, though. The facilities on board leave something to be desired.
Büyükada is the biggest of the 9 Princes' Islands and also probably the most popular with tourists. If you are visiting outside of peak season it can be a wonderful trip back in time. But during the summer months it can be both hot and packed shoulder-to-shoulder with people.As with all of the islands, there are no motorized vehicles. People get around by horse and carriage, bicycle, or good ol' fashioned heel-and-toe express (walking). You can rent bicycles and take carriage rides like taxis, which is a good way to explore the island and see its interesting blend of Victorian-meets-Turkish architecture.
The Princes' Islands were a place of exile for royalty (hence the name) during the Byzantine period, and later, for sultans as well. The Victorian influence comes from the large number of wealthy minority groups who built their cottages on these islands. Büyükada is also where Leon Trotsky exiled to when he was deported from the Soviet Union in 1929.
At the centre of the island, high up at one of the peaks, is a monastery that dates back to the sixth century. The carriages will only take you to the bottom of the peak, but for a little extra, they will wait for you to return from your hike. The hike is a fairly steep incline that goes up quite a long way (I remember being told it's a 2 kilometre hike, but I don't think it's quite that long). Do not be dismayed - the view at the top makes it worthwhile. From the peak, you can see all of Istanbul across the Sea of Marmara. It's an amazing piece of serenity set just out of reach from the chaos of the city.
At the top there is a small cafe where you can get a drink and a snack to refuel for the trip back down, just a stones throw from the small Ayia Yorgi Church and Monastery. From the other side of the monastery you can look out to sea over the beautiful blue water, despite the number of shipping vessels making their way to the Bosphorus.
If you are an animal lover, these islands also offer a rare glimpse of animal and human interaction. The islands suffer from copious amounts of stray dogs, cats and horses. Expect to feel feral cats twisting around your legs as you eat on the local patio. She will purr and beg for scraps. You'll probably see unaccompanied dogs and even horses (yes, horses) wandering on the same footpath as you. They are so used to people being around them that they hardly stir as you pass.
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| Blue Mosque |
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| Galata Tower |
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| Dolmabahçe Palace |
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