J'adore Paris

Never in a million years did I think I would ever make it to Paris. It seemed like a city born in romance novels and too expensive for the average person to experience. Then, in 2011, it finally happened - almost by chance.

We were planning a trip to visit my aunt in Europe, and discovered that there were no direct flights to her location. We would have a stop-over in Paris. Not seeing another opportunity anywhere in the near future, we decided to lengthen the stop-over and spent a whirlwind 3 days in Paris. But how could we do this without breaking our fragile budget? With some dedicated time and tools provided by Google, I will share with you how we experienced the highlights of Paris without spending a fortune.

A view from Place de la Concorde up Avenue des Champs-Élysées to the Arc du Triomphe

First of all, hunt websites for the best plane fares. Surprisingly, going direct to the airline doesn't guarantee the best price. After finding a flight on Expedia.ca, I called the airline to compare prices and found that they were charging nearly $200 more per person than Expedia for the same flight (I cross referenced the flight numbers). The airline insisted it was impossible for a flight to be cheaper anywhere else, but there you have it. I called Expedia direct, confirmed the price and booked the tickets.

Next, decide what you want in the way of accommodations. Understandably, hotels become cheaper the further away you are from the heart of things. Paris is divided by zones, called Arrondissments, starting in the centre and working outwards. Hotels in the 1st Arrondissment can often cost €250-€500 per night. If you want to go out beyond the 10th Arrondissment, you can probably find hotels closer to €80 per night, but then you have to factor in a half hour or more on the metro to get to any of the more popular sights. So, you need to decide how much your time is worth.

For us, time was valuable, since we only had a few days in the city. Still, we couldn't afford €250 per night for a hotel. We had to find a cheaper option.

Apartments are a fabulous idea. Many Parisians and vacation property owners rent out their spaces just like a hotel and are often much cheaper than a hotel. There several sites and thousands of options on sites like VRBO, Homelidays and even Craigslist, so decide what part of the city you want to stay in first. I have friends who have found apartments for €80 or €90 in rooms so small you had to step behind the toilet in order to close the washroom door. The place we found was a little more at €124 per night, but was a big, spacious apartment with a soaker tub, washing machine and American-style fridge - great features when travelling with a family. My husband also felt it gave us a more authentic Parisian experience over staying in a hotel. It was right on the border between the 1st and 4th Arrondissments and a 5 minute walk to Notre Dame. 

For us, this price was worth not losing an hour or more per day on public transportation, especially since there was a train strike at the time. We walked to most sites from our apartment and picked up food (especially crêpes!) from street vendors along the way or from little markets pocketed along the streets.

Should you decide to take the Metro or RER, rest assured, Paris' public transportation system is stellar and efficient. We took the RER from Charles de Gaulle airport to out apartment, and a few times in order to shave off some time on our schedule. Likely, you will end up taking transit at some point, so I recommend buying a booklet of 10 tickets for €11.40, which is cheaper than individual rides as long as you use them all. If you've planned ahead, you should have some idea how many you'll need.

We arrived in Paris just after noon, so by the time we settled into our apartment, it was late afternoon. We got something to eat and then walked up to the Louvre. One day a year all of France's museums offer free entry, and the day we arrived happened to be it (May 14). Now, it is said that you could spend a week in the Louvre alone, so my suggestion is to figure out what you want to see ahead of time, then look at a map to find out where they are located within the museum.

The Louvre, Paris

 On day 2 of our trip, we took the Metro out to Denfert-Rochereau station, which comes out right at the entrance to the Catacombs of Paris. The Catacombs are an underground network of tunnels that are the final resting place of an estimated 6 million Parisians. A 2 kilometre stretch of the tunnels is open to the public and while admittedly a little on the dark side, it is a fascinating piece of Paris' history.

Les Catacombes de Paris

Take note: the Catacombs are a busy attraction and the wait to get in is often an hour or more, so get there early (they open at 10 a.m., closed Mondays). At the time we went, admission was €8 for adults and free for children under 14 (though it was not recommended to bring children under this age). It can also be a little chilly, so bring a sweater!

From there, we walked to Luxembourg Gardens, which is a beautiful and peaceful place in the heart of the city. Also, if you have kids, they have a great playground area for the kids. Although it costs €2.50 to get in, it is well worth the money. There is also a nice cafe where you can sit outside and appreciate nature...but it is costly!

From there, we stopped for lunch at the Polidor. Although it doesn't look like much on the outside, it is a well-know restaurant with good food at a reasonable price compared to many places in Paris. I had their "famous" pumpkin soup. My daughter used their "legendary" washroom at the end of the meal. It has not changed in decades and was our first introduction to "hole in the ground" toilets.

After lunch we visited the Pantheon, Le Sorbonne, St. Chapelle, Notre Dame and Hotel de Ville. I believe most people know about the Pantheon and Notre Dame, but while St. Chapelle does have an audience, I don't think it's as well known. It is totally worth the wait and the admission price (€8.50 for adults, free for kids) to see the stunning stained glass interior.

The stained glass panes of St. Chapelle tell the story of the bible, beginning with the Book of Genesis

After Notre Dame, we headed back to our apartment to refresh a little and to grab some dinner before heading out on the second leg of our day. The first half included about 5 kms of walking, so we needed to refuel. Should you be more adventurous than us or have more time, Montparnasse Cemetery is located near the Catacombs and would be an addition I would have added if we'd had more time. Also, Pompidou shopping centre is only a few blocks from Notre Dame and a good place to get out of the heat for a while, if you're travelling in the summer.

To follow our path, see below:

After dinner, we took the Metro to Concorde station, which brings you out in front of the Obelisk of Luxor in the Place du Concorde. From there, you can see the Eiffel Tower in the distance and a beautiful view of the Arc du Triomphe at the end of Champs-Élysées. It's a 2 km walk up to the Arc du Triomphe, but if you're a shopper, this is the Rodeo Drive of Paris.

From the Arc du Triomphe, we walked to the Eiffel Tower, lit up in the dark by this time. It was a spectacular view to end our night. The price to go up the Eiffel Tower varies, depending on how high you want to go and if you take the stairs or elevator (€12 adults, €6.70 for kids to go to the top floor).

Photo courtesy of my 7 year old daughter

On day 3, we took the Metro to Monmartre Cemetery, a beautiful cemetery with stunning monuments (if you're into art history, it is also the final resting place of Edgar Degas). The subway map said we should get off at Place de Clichy, but it seemed to me we would be closer if we got off at Blanche station. This was a pleasant surprise, as we stepped up to ground level in front of the Moulin Rouge!

From there, we walked to la Basilique du Sacré-Cœur. We stopped at a local sandwich shop to pick up some lunch, then carried our picnic up to the basilica. There are gardens behind the basilica, seemingly unknown to most tourists, which provided a tranquil setting for lunch on the doorstep of this Parisian landmark.

The tranquil gardens behind La Basilique du Sacré-Cœur

From the front of the basilica, there is a spectacular view of the city that on its own is worth the trip.

After admiring the view, we took the Metro again to the Père Lachaise stop which takes you to... you guessed it: Père Lachaise Cemetery. If you only visit one cemetery while in Paris, let it be this one. The monuments and crypts are striking. It also has the greatest number of notable residents (such as Doors front man, Jim Morrison and writer, Oscar Wilde). Do yourself a favour, and pay the money at the entrance for a map. This cemetery is HUGE and you'll never find the tombs you're looking for without it. Fanatical tourists have been a nuisance over the years, causing Jim Morrison's grave to be fenced off to prevent its desecration, but it's not the only one suffering. From a distance, Oscar Wilde's monument looks completely ruined, but up close you realize they are mostly touching tributes to a prolific author (not that I condone doing this to someone's grave).






Don't let these few images sway you, though. The beauty that exists within the walls of this cemetery cannot be explained in words. Go. You won't regret it.

After we left the cemetery, we walked up Rue de la Roquette to Bastille and the Opera House before heading back to our apartment.

I think you can agree this is a lot to pack into 3 days, but it can be done, and it can be done on a budget! The pace can be more leisurely if you have more time in the city as well. Of course, this is only a fraction of what there is to see. Paris is rich with museums, for example. 

My mother used to say that travel is the best education and therefore I believe money spent on vacations is never a waste. If you get the chance, go. You don't need a lot of time in order to appreciate what the city has to offer.